Day 6 - Gardening

Gardens were extremely important to aristocratic life.  First, it gave you something to show off how wealthy you were!

"My, what a lovely little garden you have." she said sneeringly.

"Thank you." he replied, "It will seem much larger once you leave."

Second, it gave you a place to rendezvous with political conspirators, salacious lovers, or even your own family if you had nothing more egregious to occupy your waking hours.

"I shall be waiting under the linden tree by the fountain until I am able to sample your sweet lips again." He said coyly.

"You rake," she replied coquettishly, "whisper softer or my husband, the emperor, is sure to diminish your ability to please."

(Meanwhile on the other end of the garden)

"Your imperial majesty," the bishop said piously,  "it pains me to inform that the Count de Monet has made well received overtures to your new bride."

"Your grace," the emperor hissed,  "it is well known to me that you are uncomfortable with the Calvinist leanings of the queen.  It would do you well, to not slander her good name in my or anyone else's presence."

Beautifully trimmed hedges, sweeping varieties of foliage, expansive stretches of lawn, ornately carved statuary, bubbling fountains and exotic wild life were brought together to form these counterfeit gardens of Eden.

This is the view of the front of the Upper Belvedere

Today we toured the gardens at the Belvedere. The Belvedere was the summer home of Prince Eugene of Savoy (1663-1736).  The two palaces (Yes two, T,W,O as in one more than one but one less than three.) are separated by an expansive garden.  The home is considered one of the finest examples of baroque architecture in the world.


My entire collection of Belvedere garden photos can be found here. 


The gardens are built on three tiers, but when viewed from the Upper Belvedere looking towards the lower Belvedere the illusion of a gentle slope is created. 

This view looks down from the Upper Belvedere.
Notice that it looks like one continuous walk.

These fountains are on either side of the second tier.
We are going to meet with an architectural historian and
I am curious why these are such violent scenes.
I hope he can tell me.

This fountain is almost invisible in the first picture.
This view is of the Upper Belveder as seen from the second tier.

This view looks from the end of the middle tier down to the lower Belvedere.

The pictures are taken during a stroll from the upper Belvedere to the lower.  The hedges on the lower end create private gardens that block out everything around you.  There are secret corners that can be used for all sorts of amorous or nefarious intention.  It would also be great for a game of Hide and Seek!


Following the Belvedere we went to the Wien Museum.  Photos from this visit can be seen here along with pics from last nights trip to the heuriger. 

This is Empress Maria Theresia of Austria, the small painting above her is her son Emperor Joseph II

This miniature Vienna shows what the city looked like before Mozart's time.

This is a self portrait of composer Arnold Schoenberg

The Wien contains artifacts that explain the history of Vienna.  (Wien - Vienna)  There were portraits of Maria Theresia and her son Emperor Joseph II as well as numerous Viennese monarchs.


It also included miniature versions of the city to show how it grew over time.  Although this museum had some interesting things on exhibit, after the art history museum, this one was a bit of a let down.  


I promised to tell you about the Heuriger!  Last night we went to one of Vienna's multiple Heuriger taverns.  A Heuriger is a kind of tavern that sells new wine.  That would be wine that was made within the last couple of years.  It is a white wine that is exceptionally fruity with a slightly dry finish.  The tradition is to mix it with a little seltzer and make your own wine spritzers.  For me the highlight of the evening was the friendly conversation and the fantastic food, although the wine was quite good.

Several of my institute colleagues at the Heuriger.
I'm sitting at the empty seat.

This wonderful dark bread was served with a paprika cream cheese. - YUM

Can you believe these are half portions?

The food was served in enormous portions!  All of the portions in the photographs are half size! Before dinner we shared this wonderful pumpernickel bread with a paprika cream cheese spread.  It was to die for.  Then we lined up to the buffet.  They call it a buffet, but it is more like a cafeteria.  You choose what you want and pay for what you take.  If you want more you pay more.  I had pork roast with yellow and orange carrots, eggplant casserole with cheese and tomatoes and for dessert a mixed berry strudel.  Every bite was delicious. 


I'm beginning to understand how the Viennese eat.  They like HUGE breakfasts, light lunches and substantial dinners with wine, wine and more wine.  I love the huge breakfasts, they really help you get ready for the day.  My standard light lunch is some kind of bread with cheese, fruit and/or pastry.  Today I chose a mild Camembert, with a flaky croissant and an individual fruit tart.  I'm not usually hungry for dinner, so I've been skipping dinner every other night.  And as far as the wine goes, well that frankly isn't any of your business.  Let's just say I've tasted it and have not over indulged.  


Tomorrow is a major Viennese religious holiday, Corpus Christi day.  We will be joining in the festivities by attending a Mozart Mass, following the procession through the streets and then meeting for class in the afternoon before attending a concert tomorrow evening. 


By the way, thanks for all the cool comments and likes.  It really makes me feel good to have so many people reading about my adventures.